Sunday, July 4, 2010

MASTER STOCK PORK BELLY WITH WATERCRESS

Berkshires are an old breed of pig that virtually disappeared in Australia - and elsewhere - as people tried to breed the fat out of pork. That was a stupid mistake. The result is the crap that's sold by most butchers and all supermarkets - pork with no discernible flavour that becomes dry and tough with cooking. Here in Australia, it took the passion of people like Joe Byrne of Bangalow Sweet Pork to encourage breeders to return to some of the heritage breeds that carried a natural amount of fat. That fat meas that pork from these breeds behaves differently in the kitchen than standard pork. Its fat content allows the meat to retain succulence. Natural sugars in the flesh caramelise in a pan. The Berkshire is a black pig with short legs. Byron Bay Berkshire Pork is raised in the area between Ballina and Byron Bay in northern New South Wales. In Japan, kurobuta pork is produced from a pure strain of black Berkshires. It is as highly prized as the best Kobe beef and regarded as the best pork in the world. A Berkshire's belly flesh doesn't seem to be as thick as some other breeds, but it is beautifully flavoured. I braised a whole piece in master stock. The original stock dates back about 6 years. Every so often, as the quantity reduces, I supplement it with fresh ingredients. After each use, I strain and refrigerate what's left. I lift off any fat that has solidified on the surface and freeze the stock until I need it again. This piece of belly was cooked at 130C for six hours.
Bangalow Pork Berkshire pigs - Wikipedia
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