POLLO CON MOLE NEGRO

Ah, moles. They really are one of the most extraordinary creations in world cooking. There are several theories about when the first mole was created and by whom and where. Even though the modern mole is credited to a nun in Puebla in the 18th century, there would have been similar - if less complex - combinations of chocolate and chillies and local herbs and spices before the Spanish invaded Mexico. The Spaniards brought almonds, cinnamon and other goodies that are now key ingredients in the most complex moles. Oaxaca, in Mexico's south, is known as the land of the seven moles. Some are quite simple. The most complex is the mole negro (which isn't really black, just dark). There are between 20 and 30 ingredients in this sauce. That makes it something you don't want to whip up on the spur of the moment. I consider making mole paste therapeutic. When I go into one of my therapy sessions, I make a large batch and freeze what I don't need. In this case, I made about 1 1/2 litres. In Mexico, the small native turkeys would traditionally have been the bird of choice. Chicken is now probably more commonly used - although there's nothing common about Mexican chooks. They have a depth of flavour I'd forgotten. As soon as I tasted my first Mexican chicken, it unlocked memories of a taste I recalled from my childhood - but now long gone from Australian chickens. Let's just call it chicken flavour. OK, back to moles. Until you taste one you can't really claim to have tasted Mexican cuisine. Until you go to Oaxaca, you can't really claim to have been to Mexico. I'd been told by friends in Mexico City that Oaxaca is a magic, spiritual place - and it is - with one of the world's great markets. The mole negro de oaxaca uses chillies that are hard to find in the US and impossible in Australia - chilhuacle, for example. For those of you who simply think of chillies as sources of heat, the variety of flavours and degrees of complexity in Mexican chillies is mind blowing. You get chillies that taste grassy, fruity, chocolatey, nutty, earthy - and degrees of heat from soft and sweet through to searingly strong. Each has its place and none is used for heat alone. There are lots of recipes for mole negro available online. There are lots of recipes in Mexico. Every cook has her favourite combination of ingredients. If you're feeling lazy or pushed for time, you can buy ready-made mole pastes in the markets. In Oaxaca, many locals buy the ingredients in the markets and then take them all to a corner mill to have them ground - cocoa beans, cinnamon, almonds, cloves etc etc in the quantities preferred. Thanks to my dear friend Amr for inspiring me to cook mole tonight.

POLLO CON MOLE NEGRO