I bought these guys this morning at the weekly markets. Of all the fresh Mexican chillies, this is the one most commonly seen here in Australia. In Mexico, the serrano is probably more common, but these would run a close second. I have had some that are disappointingly mild. But the best have a real bite - not as strong as serranos and nothing like the searing intensity of habaneros. I have photographed them in a bassalt molcajete, a brilliant mortar because the rough and tough bassalt grips the ingredients, making grinding a breeze.
How do we use them? Raw and sliced in tacos and quesadillas. Pickled - jalapeños en escabeche - as a condiment with just about anything. Stuffed - with crab or cheese - and roasted. Shallow fried until the skin blisters - great with barbecued steak. In salsas, mixed with charred tomatoes, lime juice and coriander or with tomatillos.
When fully ripe and deep red, these are smoked over mesquite wood and are called chipotles. In this form they make another brilliant condiment, chipotles en adobo. This can then be blended and added to home-made mayonnaise, which works brilliantly with tuna, salmon, chicken and steak.
The endless creative ways to use each chilli variety is something I love about Mexican cooking. No chilli is used solely for heat. Each is used because it adds a certain flavour complexity that works with other ingredients.
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