KAPITAN PRAWNS
Serves 4
24 GREEN PRAWNS
2 CANDLENUTS
3 RED THAI CHILLIES
2 CM SQUARE PIECE OF PRAWN PASTE
2 GARLIC CLOVES
2 STALKS OF LEMONGRASS
1 TEASPOON GROUND TURMERIC
4 TABLESPOONS PEANUT OIL
250 MLS COCONUT CREAM
2 TABLESPOONS TAMARIND PASTE
150 MLS WATER
PINCH OF SALT
1 TEASPOON SUGAR
1/2 CINNAMON QUILL
5 GREEN CARDAMOM PODS
FRIED SHALLOTS
Crush the candlenuts, chillies, garlic, prawn paste, lemongrass and turmeric to a paste. Heat the oil over medium heat. Add paste and fry until fragrant. Add coconut cream, tamarind paste & water and bring back to a simmer. Crack cardamom pods and add these and the cinnamon quill (put them into a herb cage or tie them in muslin to make it easy to remove them later), salt and sugar. Heat until reduced to a thick sauce, stirring frequently. Taste and add more salt or sugar as desired.
Shell and devein the prawns, leaving the tail section intact. Remove the cardamom and cinnamon from the sauce. Add prawns and cook. Place into a serving bowl and sprinkle fried shallots over the top.
I first frequented The Malaya in the early 1980s, when I was a post-grad. at University of Sydney. It was in, what was to me, it's original location at the top of George St, on the left facing the City Centre. It was probably our favourite place to go. It was frequented by many people associated with The University. I remember it as a long, narrow space, with worn and dirty floor coverings. It was always busy and I always ordered either Kapitan Prawn or Chicken, with Steamed Rice; but my favourite, if I had to choose, was the prawn version. It was to die for. It remains to this day possibly my most memorable restaurant dish. I went back there many, many times after the early 80s, just to have it again. I tried many times to make it myself, but, I believe, all my attempts failed dismally. Thank you Greg Alder for your go at the recipe. I have copied and may make one day. It strikes me though, as complicated in its ingredient mix. Sadly, I may have lost the energy nowadays to pursue such adventures!
ReplyDeleteAt one point, probably in the 2000s, I went looking again for The Malaya, and discovered that it had moved closer to the City, along George, and that it had acquired an upmarket look, and seemed then to be catering for the Lunch/Business crowd. The change was disappointing to me. It had lost something. But the biggest change was price. Kapitan Prawn had become a most expensive dish, along with all other menu items. What a shame. I haven't been back. I'm not in Sydney these days. I still think about the better times.
I also first ate at The Malaya in early 1974, when it was a pretty basic restaurant and before the extensions, and the subsequent two moves (they are now in Lime St at Darling Harbour). It has always been my favourite restaurant in Sydney, and on the odd occasion I am in Sydney, I try to go there. They still make some of the old favourites like Kapitan, Laksa, their amazing curries, Hokkien chow mien, etc, and they still taste the same. The Kapitan prawn is my sister in law's absolute fave, so we always have it... It really is to die for. Thanks for the recipe above... I'll try it sometime soon :)
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