Sunday, May 23, 2010


Salmon used to be a luxury in Australia. Then they started raising it in pens moored in deep water off the coast of Tasmania. It became a lot easier to buy. And cheaper. So there's really no reason to go without the goodness of salmon once a week. I sear it in ghee in a pan over a 3/4 flame. I cook it only on one side - the skin side. I spoon over a little of the hot ghee to warm the other side. Maybe once or twice. That's all. I want the salmon warm inside, but still raw. To ensure this, you'll need to bring the fish to room temperature for a half hour before cooking. I usually skin the fish, but you can leave the skin on if you like (but make sure you scrape off any scales). If the heat's high enough the skin will crisp up nicely. If you buy the salmon already portioned, there's a good chance the pin bones have been removed. To check, run your fingers across the inside (opposite the skin) of the fillet. You'll feel the tips of the pin bones in a line across the middle of the fillet. Global (and other knife manufacturers) make a really handy broad-bladed pair of tweezers especially for this purpose. They're MUCH easier to use than your girlfriend's eyebrow tweezers. Besides, most girls seem to object to the smell of dried fish on their tweezers. I smoked some onions - not too heavily - before making this jam with brown sugar and balsamic vinegar.

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